Things haven't gone exactly to plan, the garden has been prioritised for Thomas, Play den, decking, paving all done but not where we first planned it.
It looks good though and at least I can get back to planting and growing, so hopefully 2014 I will have a bumber crop of plants and fruits.
Some Photo's
Thursday, 13 June 2013
Wednesday, 1 August 2012
Saturday, 28 July 2012
Garden Project
For 2012 a new garden is in order.
Must haves;
1. Decking
2. Greenhouse
3. BBQ
4. Lots of pots and baskets
To achieve this I need to dismantel the pond and remove the remaining grass (not a lot), the hard bit is removing the pond. I'll take some pictures and post them here, also I'll try and put a plan of the garden on here.
Idea 1.
Must haves;
1. Decking
2. Greenhouse
3. BBQ
4. Lots of pots and baskets
To achieve this I need to dismantel the pond and remove the remaining grass (not a lot), the hard bit is removing the pond. I'll take some pictures and post them here, also I'll try and put a plan of the garden on here.
Idea 1.
Details of woden greenhouses > http://www.gardenbuildingsdirect.co.uk/Wooden-Greenhouses
Visit to Roualeyn Nursery Conwy
A day out on Conwy meant we could visit what I understood to be a great fuchsia nursery and we was not disappointed. Located just outsode Conwy in a small village called Trefriw. It is situated at the top of a very steep hill that we didn't think our car would make it up but I'm g;ad to say we amde it.
There was a large selection of very fine Fuchsia's, some brilliant standards and massive baskets. I bought a few new plants and I think I'll be visiting tha Harrogate show for a Standard.
I'll post some images of the new plants........
Excellent nursery, if your near by pay it a visit and if you use mail oder you can be confident you will get great plants.
There was a large selection of very fine Fuchsia's, some brilliant standards and massive baskets. I bought a few new plants and I think I'll be visiting tha Harrogate show for a Standard.
I'll post some images of the new plants........
Excellent nursery, if your near by pay it a visit and if you use mail oder you can be confident you will get great plants.
Monday, 2 July 2012
Hostas
Not had as much time as I would like so far this year, Fuchsia are a bit behind, no where near as amany as last year and also I have only just got my Hostas into tubs - had them for ages in a box from Parkers.
Hosta are another favourite plant, I have about 7 so far just to see how well they will do.
They will need wintering as do the fuchsia plants.
I'll get some more pictures up soon, but here is one that will be put in a basket this week.
Hosta are another favourite plant, I have about 7 so far just to see how well they will do.
They will need wintering as do the fuchsia plants.
I'll get some more pictures up soon, but here is one that will be put in a basket this week.
Hosta Mediovariegata
Friday, 12 August 2011
Cuttings this weekend (24/8/2011)
24/8/11: several have been lost for whatever reason but majority seem to be rooting well. Another 17 cuttings taken and placed in 2.5" pots with the view to create Fuchsia Standards.
12/8/11: - Still looking healthy, none lost yet. Some additional growth on several of the cuttings of each variety.
30/7/11:- Again all looking healthy still in the shade and being kept cool.
27/7/11:- All cuttings are looking very good and healthy. Keep them cool and in the shade all the time.
24/7/11:- Having been reading Ken Pilkingtons "How to Grow Fuchias" book I ventured into taking some cuttings and experimenting.
Two plants, Harry Gray and Gillian Anthea (Pictures to be put in the flowers section soon). I also planted some of the seeds, just to see what happens.
A selection of cutting sizes was taken from each of the plants and a compost mixture (6 parts compost, 1 part sharp sand, 1 part vermiculite). The compost was well moistened and each cutting had hormone powder dabbed on the end and placed in the propogator. This will be kept in a shaded part of the garden.
I will update on progress.
12/8/11: - Still looking healthy, none lost yet. Some additional growth on several of the cuttings of each variety.
30/7/11:- Again all looking healthy still in the shade and being kept cool.
27/7/11:- All cuttings are looking very good and healthy. Keep them cool and in the shade all the time.
24/7/11:- Having been reading Ken Pilkingtons "How to Grow Fuchias" book I ventured into taking some cuttings and experimenting.
Two plants, Harry Gray and Gillian Anthea (Pictures to be put in the flowers section soon). I also planted some of the seeds, just to see what happens.
A selection of cutting sizes was taken from each of the plants and a compost mixture (6 parts compost, 1 part sharp sand, 1 part vermiculite). The compost was well moistened and each cutting had hormone powder dabbed on the end and placed in the propogator. This will be kept in a shaded part of the garden.
I will update on progress.
Saturday, 30 July 2011
Pest and Diseases - Gall Mite
Fuchsia Gall Mite
Sadly this is a subject that we will have to keep on coming back to – as the more aware we all are then the less chance there is of it becoming too much worse.
Sadly this is a subject that we will have to keep on coming back to – as the more aware we all are then the less chance there is of it becoming too much worse.
- Be careful about where you get your fuchsias from and be on the lookout for plants that look odd
- Don’t take cuttings from the hedgerows or in public areas. If offered a cutting think twice and have a look around at all their plants for any signs of damage
- Only buy from sources that you can be sure of
If buying from a nursery - look around and check for gall mite damage before purchasing any plants.
Remember that fuchsia gall mite has been found in many cases in Brittany and the Channel Islands – so if you are thinking of bringing plants or cuttings back from either of these places DON’T ! - Check your plants weekly during the growing season.
In 2010 the reported cases started in July and so we need to be vigilant from now on. Maybe the cold winter will have deterred its progress but we can’t take that for granted. Cases in 2010 were again in the South and South West but this is not to say that this will always be the case – so please keep an eye out where ever you are.
What to do if you find it - It is still a notifiable pest and if found, your local DERA office or Plant Health and Seeds Inspector (PHSI) must be contacted. With regard to outbreaks in private gardens, they still like to monitor and confirm what is going on through people sending in samples for confirmation. You can also contact the RHS at Wisley for confirmation as well – just send them a sample in a sealed container with an sae for their reply.
Once confirmed, the current recommendation is to physically remove as much of the infested material as possible, which should be burnt.
We hope that by the time that you read this there will have been a summit between the BFS, RHS and DERA and other interested parties to look into the problem and to hopefully come up with new advice etc.
Wednesday, 27 July 2011
Pests and Diseases - Botrytis
This common killer of promising plants occurs mainly in damp, crowded conditions.
Symptoms
The first signs are wilting stems and falling leaves, similar to the effects of over-watering. In fact over-watering is often a primary cause of this problem.
On further examination a grey furry mould may be seen on fallen leaves and around the base of the plant stems. A brown stain can often be seen travelling up the stems from compost level. Leaves on such stems are unlikely to survive.
Treatment
Remedies include providing more space per plant; better ventilation with the greenhouse door open all day in all but the coldest weather, to allow a good circulation of air; and more careful watering. Infected plants can be pruned to remove the affected stems and will often make a full recovery.
Compost surface should be kept clear of all decaying matter and a fungicide applied. Like many other problems botrytis is largely due to poor hygiene and greenhouse management.
Symptoms
The first signs are wilting stems and falling leaves, similar to the effects of over-watering. In fact over-watering is often a primary cause of this problem.
On further examination a grey furry mould may be seen on fallen leaves and around the base of the plant stems. A brown stain can often be seen travelling up the stems from compost level. Leaves on such stems are unlikely to survive.
Treatment
Remedies include providing more space per plant; better ventilation with the greenhouse door open all day in all but the coldest weather, to allow a good circulation of air; and more careful watering. Infected plants can be pruned to remove the affected stems and will often make a full recovery.
Compost surface should be kept clear of all decaying matter and a fungicide applied. Like many other problems botrytis is largely due to poor hygiene and greenhouse management.
Monday, 25 July 2011
Over-wintering
There is sometimes a perception that Fuchsias are exotic tropical plants, which are very delicate greenhouse specimens that will not tolerate the cold. In fact this is very far from the truth, fuchsias thrive at a temperature of about 60 to 65°F and grow 20° below and 10° above this and will tolerate various extremes outside this.
There are many hardy varieties which can be left in the garden and whilst the top growth may be killed off, they will grow again in the spring. Varieties which are not hardy only simply need to be kept frost free.
Fuchsias are quite succulent plants containing 50% water and freezing destroys the plants cells which in turn destroys the plant. They will tolerate temperatures down to zero, becoming dormant at less than 40°F, losing all their foliage, but will survive. All that is needed is a frost free environment and occasional checking to ensure they are not too wet or too dry. It really is worthwhile trying to keep your plants over the winter as they will make far superior specimens in their second year than they did in their first.
Below are some guidelines on different methods of maintaining your stock over the winter.
In the Garden
Only hardy varieties will survive the winter in the garden, half hardy varieties should be lifted and put in pots to be treated or stored as below. For hardies in the Autumn around or after the first frosts, lightly prune fuchsias, no lower than 18" for the winter period. This stops strong winter winds from loosening your plants, but still leaves enough old growth to protect the 'crown' of the plant from frost damage. It is also a good idea to cover the base of the plant with some mulch or just an extra few inches of soil.
In Spring cut off previous years growth to where the new growth appears which could be at ground level and carefully dig in a balanced fertiliser around the plant.
In Pots
During late Autumn all fuchsias in pots that you wish to overwinter should have all flowers and foliage removed and anything between about a third or a half of the stems and branches cut-back. As a general rule always leave between 4 and 6 inches of old stems above soil level. Also remove all debris and top inch of soil from the pot, if you can without damaging the surface roots, give them a real good clean. Spray with insecticide and fungicide. If leaving your plant in same pot treat with 'Provado' to kill any vine-weevil larvae that may be lurking in the pot.
If you do not have a greenhouse, simply keep plants frost free, with little or no light, and just keep slightly moist, not wet (otherwise they will die). There are various places suitable to keep Fuchsias over the winter. Essentially any cool dark room, loft, basement, garage or similar will do. All you should have to do is check them occassionally to ensure the root does not dry out completely, but if they do need any water give only enough to dampen them. They will not start to shoot new growth until you bring them back into light and warmth in Spring. Try to introduce them back into the light at the end of March or beginning of April if you can, get them outside when you can and bring them into a cool room at night until all risk of frost has past.
When they are brought out of hibernation it's best to repot them in fresh compost. To repot remove plant from pot, tease out at least half of the old compost; remove any old brown roots leaving as much fine white root as possible. Place in new pot, at least 1 size smaller, add fresh compost, and give adequate water to settle the new compost, but do not drench with water. A good way to avoid overwatering is to place plastic saucers underneath the pots and give water via the saucer. The moisture then goes straight to the root area, this also avoids having a whole pot full of wet soil, which you would have if you watered from the top, this in turn helps against fungi developing such as botrytis. Just remember to empty the saucer after about 5 mins of any water the plant hasn't taken up, they don't like their feet in water. Spray branches and stems with tepid water once per day, this helps new foliage to come back. As soon as new foliage appears start shaping again, ready for the new season.
If you do have a greenhouse, and wish to overwinter in the greenhouse, keep the temperature at a minimum of 40°F or 5°C, with some form of heating just to keep them ticking over until you wish them to come into growth, it's good to give them a bit of a natural rest. When you want them to come back into growth repot as described above and turn up the heat to a minimum 45°F or 8°C. This is best done towards the end of January when the days begin to lengthen as too much heat too soon will cause your plants to be soft and elongated, making them a bit weak. What is needed is a good balance of light and heat to promote short jointed strong growth. Always remember to maintain which ever method of heating you choose, a failure in the middle of a cold night could be disasterous. Likewise ensure your greenhouse is secured to withstand the worst of the weather, any loose glass or vents in a high wind could also spell disaster.
Of course many growers who have a greenhouse but do not wish to afford the expense of heating it all winter or not have sufficient stock to justify heating all winter, choose a combination of both the above methods. Plants are taken indoors and stored before the first frosts then introduced into a heated greenhouse in February or March when the weather becomes a bit milder. This is a most economical way of ensuring you plants are safely protected through the winter and yet brought back into growth early enough to get the best from them the following season.
There are many hardy varieties which can be left in the garden and whilst the top growth may be killed off, they will grow again in the spring. Varieties which are not hardy only simply need to be kept frost free.
Fuchsias are quite succulent plants containing 50% water and freezing destroys the plants cells which in turn destroys the plant. They will tolerate temperatures down to zero, becoming dormant at less than 40°F, losing all their foliage, but will survive. All that is needed is a frost free environment and occasional checking to ensure they are not too wet or too dry. It really is worthwhile trying to keep your plants over the winter as they will make far superior specimens in their second year than they did in their first.
Below are some guidelines on different methods of maintaining your stock over the winter.
In the Garden
Only hardy varieties will survive the winter in the garden, half hardy varieties should be lifted and put in pots to be treated or stored as below. For hardies in the Autumn around or after the first frosts, lightly prune fuchsias, no lower than 18" for the winter period. This stops strong winter winds from loosening your plants, but still leaves enough old growth to protect the 'crown' of the plant from frost damage. It is also a good idea to cover the base of the plant with some mulch or just an extra few inches of soil.
In Spring cut off previous years growth to where the new growth appears which could be at ground level and carefully dig in a balanced fertiliser around the plant.
In Pots
During late Autumn all fuchsias in pots that you wish to overwinter should have all flowers and foliage removed and anything between about a third or a half of the stems and branches cut-back. As a general rule always leave between 4 and 6 inches of old stems above soil level. Also remove all debris and top inch of soil from the pot, if you can without damaging the surface roots, give them a real good clean. Spray with insecticide and fungicide. If leaving your plant in same pot treat with 'Provado' to kill any vine-weevil larvae that may be lurking in the pot.
If you do not have a greenhouse, simply keep plants frost free, with little or no light, and just keep slightly moist, not wet (otherwise they will die). There are various places suitable to keep Fuchsias over the winter. Essentially any cool dark room, loft, basement, garage or similar will do. All you should have to do is check them occassionally to ensure the root does not dry out completely, but if they do need any water give only enough to dampen them. They will not start to shoot new growth until you bring them back into light and warmth in Spring. Try to introduce them back into the light at the end of March or beginning of April if you can, get them outside when you can and bring them into a cool room at night until all risk of frost has past.
When they are brought out of hibernation it's best to repot them in fresh compost. To repot remove plant from pot, tease out at least half of the old compost; remove any old brown roots leaving as much fine white root as possible. Place in new pot, at least 1 size smaller, add fresh compost, and give adequate water to settle the new compost, but do not drench with water. A good way to avoid overwatering is to place plastic saucers underneath the pots and give water via the saucer. The moisture then goes straight to the root area, this also avoids having a whole pot full of wet soil, which you would have if you watered from the top, this in turn helps against fungi developing such as botrytis. Just remember to empty the saucer after about 5 mins of any water the plant hasn't taken up, they don't like their feet in water. Spray branches and stems with tepid water once per day, this helps new foliage to come back. As soon as new foliage appears start shaping again, ready for the new season.
If you do have a greenhouse, and wish to overwinter in the greenhouse, keep the temperature at a minimum of 40°F or 5°C, with some form of heating just to keep them ticking over until you wish them to come into growth, it's good to give them a bit of a natural rest. When you want them to come back into growth repot as described above and turn up the heat to a minimum 45°F or 8°C. This is best done towards the end of January when the days begin to lengthen as too much heat too soon will cause your plants to be soft and elongated, making them a bit weak. What is needed is a good balance of light and heat to promote short jointed strong growth. Always remember to maintain which ever method of heating you choose, a failure in the middle of a cold night could be disasterous. Likewise ensure your greenhouse is secured to withstand the worst of the weather, any loose glass or vents in a high wind could also spell disaster.
Of course many growers who have a greenhouse but do not wish to afford the expense of heating it all winter or not have sufficient stock to justify heating all winter, choose a combination of both the above methods. Plants are taken indoors and stored before the first frosts then introduced into a heated greenhouse in February or March when the weather becomes a bit milder. This is a most economical way of ensuring you plants are safely protected through the winter and yet brought back into growth early enough to get the best from them the following season.
New Tub
Tall fuchsia is "Gillian Anthea" and around the base of the tub is "Marinka" - Hopefully as this fills out it will be a very nice display.
Waltons Nursery Visit
A visit to this nursery at weekend and to be honest very dissapointed.
http://www.waltonnurseries.co.uk/
On arrival it looked nothing like the pictures on the web site. A friendly welcome but as for fuchias, well, what can I say. The plants did not look healthy, every time one was picked up to inspect a huge bloom of "whitefly" flew around the top. To me it looked like the nursery was about to close.
There could be a lot of scope for this place but it would seem to have gone past it sell by date.
http://www.waltonnurseries.co.uk/
On arrival it looked nothing like the pictures on the web site. A friendly welcome but as for fuchias, well, what can I say. The plants did not look healthy, every time one was picked up to inspect a huge bloom of "whitefly" flew around the top. To me it looked like the nursery was about to close.
There could be a lot of scope for this place but it would seem to have gone past it sell by date.
Friday, 22 July 2011
Tuesday, 19 July 2011
Monday, 18 July 2011
Carmel Blue
Planted 16/7/2011Carmel Blue is a upright deciduous shrub with dark green, ovate leaves. It bears pendant flowers with blue petals and white sepals.
Mixed Troughs
Planted 9/7/2011A mixture of the following;
Paula Jane
Diva
Dollar Princess
Trudi Davro
Genii
La Campanella
Planted 18/7/2011La Campanella is a lax, deciduous shrub with mid green leaves. In summer and autumn it bears small, semi double flowers with white tubes, pink tinged white sepals and purple petals.
Dark Eyes
Planted 17/7/2011 Dark Eyes is an upright, small bushy deciduous shrub with dark green leaves. it bears single flowers with deep crimson sepals and tube and deep violet petals in summer and autumn.
Harry Gray
Planted 17/7/2011Harry Gray is a vigorous trailing shrub with dark green leaves, red stems and double pale pink flowers blooming from Summer to Autumn.
Happy Wedding Day
Planted 17/7/2011 Happy Wedding Day is a trailing, deciduous shrub with dark green leaves and double pink flushed, white flowers with red streaks blooming from Summer to Autumn
Monday, 27 June 2011
Pests and Diseases - VINE WEEVILS
A small grey-black beetle often found wandering amongst plants at night.
Symptoms
One of the gardener's worst enemies - virtually undetectable until the plant wilts and begins to topple over. The beetle itself takes irregular chunks out of the edges of leaves and often hides in daylight at the bottom of pots and saucers. The main damage is caused by its creamy white grubs with brown heads, which hatch out from the many eggs a female can lay in its lifetime.
The eggs are laid amongst the roots of a plant and the grubs eat away at the tender white roots until the plant can no longer take in nourishment or maintain its stability. A slight touch can dislodge an affected plant completely.
Treatment
Most cases will be discovered in early spring when plants fail to thrive after a winter's rest. Re-potting in the autumn can often avoid the problem. Removing all the soil from affected roots, the comma-shaped grubs can be seen curled up in the nooks and crannies of the root ball. A knitting needle is useful to prise the grubs out and followed by a good rinse in a mild disinfectant solution the plant will usually be saved by re-potting. If too much root material has been destroyed it may be too late. In this case emergency cuttings should be taken or branches kept in water until new shoots appear for the purpose.
Prevention involves watering in a solution of Provado or similar proprietary remedy before over-wintering. This should kill the grubs in situ. It can be used at any time of year for general protection. It is also advisable to check hiding places for adult weevils in the daytime or even venture out with a torch at night to spot them actually on your plants.
Symptoms
One of the gardener's worst enemies - virtually undetectable until the plant wilts and begins to topple over. The beetle itself takes irregular chunks out of the edges of leaves and often hides in daylight at the bottom of pots and saucers. The main damage is caused by its creamy white grubs with brown heads, which hatch out from the many eggs a female can lay in its lifetime.
The eggs are laid amongst the roots of a plant and the grubs eat away at the tender white roots until the plant can no longer take in nourishment or maintain its stability. A slight touch can dislodge an affected plant completely.
Treatment
Most cases will be discovered in early spring when plants fail to thrive after a winter's rest. Re-potting in the autumn can often avoid the problem. Removing all the soil from affected roots, the comma-shaped grubs can be seen curled up in the nooks and crannies of the root ball. A knitting needle is useful to prise the grubs out and followed by a good rinse in a mild disinfectant solution the plant will usually be saved by re-potting. If too much root material has been destroyed it may be too late. In this case emergency cuttings should be taken or branches kept in water until new shoots appear for the purpose.
Prevention involves watering in a solution of Provado or similar proprietary remedy before over-wintering. This should kill the grubs in situ. It can be used at any time of year for general protection. It is also advisable to check hiding places for adult weevils in the daytime or even venture out with a torch at night to spot them actually on your plants.
Pests and Diseases - RUST
Rust is a fungus which is often peculiar to the plant it infects. e.g: fuchsia rust or geranium rust.
Symptoms
Plants show patches of rust-coloured powder on the underside of leaves. Often the upper surface is also discoloured in the same area. This may be the first sign of trouble.
Rust is highly contagious, scattering in a wide area around infected leaves. Spores carry in the air so it is wise to disturb the leaves as little as possible when dealing with an outbreak.
Treatment
Treatment with a fungicide in the early stages may be effective. All infected leaves should be collected and burnt or disposed of safely.
In the event of a more serious outbreak the whole plant may have to be destroyed. Wet weather seems to create the conditions in which rust thrives. However, good hygiene and fungicide treatment can usually save a plant to live a long and healthy life. Don't be too quick to bin those special varieties.
Symptoms
Plants show patches of rust-coloured powder on the underside of leaves. Often the upper surface is also discoloured in the same area. This may be the first sign of trouble.
Rust is highly contagious, scattering in a wide area around infected leaves. Spores carry in the air so it is wise to disturb the leaves as little as possible when dealing with an outbreak.
Treatment
Treatment with a fungicide in the early stages may be effective. All infected leaves should be collected and burnt or disposed of safely.
In the event of a more serious outbreak the whole plant may have to be destroyed. Wet weather seems to create the conditions in which rust thrives. However, good hygiene and fungicide treatment can usually save a plant to live a long and healthy life. Don't be too quick to bin those special varieties.
Pests and Diseases - ROOT ROT
Often a result of over-watering
Symptoms
The plant fails to thrive. Leaves become limp and yellow and eventually fall off. On lifting the root ball from the pot it is obviously water-logged and the roots are a dark brown colour. If they are already quite rotten they may fall off at a touch.
Treatment
A plant which has reached this sorry state may have lost too many roots to recover. It may be possible to save it by using the same measures as for over-watering. It will be necessary to produce enough healthy white roots to sustain the plant before it is likely to recover.
Root rot is the result of poor greenhouse management and can often be due to cramped roots and the need for re-potting in a larger size pot, but over-watering is the main culprit. Never leave a fuchsia standing in a saucer of water after it has soaked up its immediate requirements.
Symptoms
The plant fails to thrive. Leaves become limp and yellow and eventually fall off. On lifting the root ball from the pot it is obviously water-logged and the roots are a dark brown colour. If they are already quite rotten they may fall off at a touch.
Treatment
A plant which has reached this sorry state may have lost too many roots to recover. It may be possible to save it by using the same measures as for over-watering. It will be necessary to produce enough healthy white roots to sustain the plant before it is likely to recover.
Root rot is the result of poor greenhouse management and can often be due to cramped roots and the need for re-potting in a larger size pot, but over-watering is the main culprit. Never leave a fuchsia standing in a saucer of water after it has soaked up its immediate requirements.
Pests and Diseases - RED SPIDER MITE
Red spider mite often occur during a long spell of hot weather.
Symptoms
It is difficult to detect red spider mite in the early stages. Rarely seen in early spring it makes an appearance as plants mature and the weather warms up.
These pests are not spiders but probably get their name from the webs that appear in the later stages of an infestation. The mites are almost invisible to the naked eye but quite obvious under a magnifying glass as tiny whitish flecks moving around under the leaves and in the web-like structures. The underside of the fuchsia leaves take on a bronzed look. As time goes on the leaves turn brown and shrivel up, eventually falling off the plant which can die if the infestation is sufficiently advanced before it is noticed.
Treatment
This problem is best caught early if the plants are to be saved. In hot weather fuchsias should all be outside as red spider mite spreads like wildfire in the greenhouse. Regular hygiene routines and spraying with a good insecticide will go a long way towards keeping the mite under control but it is notoriously difficult to find a totally effective spray. Examination of the underside of leaves will reveal the bronze effect before the damage is too far advanced for treatment. Spray lightly to keep plants moist.
At the end of a long hot summer many plants will be showing signs of red spider mite infestation but most will survive.
Destroy badly infected plants and isolate the rest. These should be defoliated (leaves stripped) and cut back. Winter is a good remedy as the mite is unlikely to survive cold weather- try again next year!
Symptoms
It is difficult to detect red spider mite in the early stages. Rarely seen in early spring it makes an appearance as plants mature and the weather warms up.
These pests are not spiders but probably get their name from the webs that appear in the later stages of an infestation. The mites are almost invisible to the naked eye but quite obvious under a magnifying glass as tiny whitish flecks moving around under the leaves and in the web-like structures. The underside of the fuchsia leaves take on a bronzed look. As time goes on the leaves turn brown and shrivel up, eventually falling off the plant which can die if the infestation is sufficiently advanced before it is noticed.
Treatment
This problem is best caught early if the plants are to be saved. In hot weather fuchsias should all be outside as red spider mite spreads like wildfire in the greenhouse. Regular hygiene routines and spraying with a good insecticide will go a long way towards keeping the mite under control but it is notoriously difficult to find a totally effective spray. Examination of the underside of leaves will reveal the bronze effect before the damage is too far advanced for treatment. Spray lightly to keep plants moist.
At the end of a long hot summer many plants will be showing signs of red spider mite infestation but most will survive.
Destroy badly infected plants and isolate the rest. These should be defoliated (leaves stripped) and cut back. Winter is a good remedy as the mite is unlikely to survive cold weather- try again next year!
Pests and Diseases - OVER-WATERING
One of the commonest causes of plant death
Symptoms
The plant wilts and looks as though it actually needs water. The pot feels heavy and may drip if lifted up, especially if it has been standing in a saucer which has stagnant water in it.
Treatment
.Watering the plant at this stage may be fatal and it may never recover. Emergency measures include baring the root ball and draining on newspaper until it becomes less wet. Squeezing the root ball carefully can hasten the drying-out process. The plant may then be re-potted using a fairly dry compost. If things have not reached the point of no return (See root rot ) this may save your plant. Fuchsias should never be left standing in saucers of water. When watering any surplus water should be drained away after half an hour. The weight of pots can be a good indication of dryness. With clay pots an experienced grower can tell by the sound of the pot when tapped lightly. The debate on watering from the top or bottom of the plant has yet to be resolved.
Symptoms
The plant wilts and looks as though it actually needs water. The pot feels heavy and may drip if lifted up, especially if it has been standing in a saucer which has stagnant water in it.
Treatment
.Watering the plant at this stage may be fatal and it may never recover. Emergency measures include baring the root ball and draining on newspaper until it becomes less wet. Squeezing the root ball carefully can hasten the drying-out process. The plant may then be re-potted using a fairly dry compost. If things have not reached the point of no return (See root rot ) this may save your plant. Fuchsias should never be left standing in saucers of water. When watering any surplus water should be drained away after half an hour. The weight of pots can be a good indication of dryness. With clay pots an experienced grower can tell by the sound of the pot when tapped lightly. The debate on watering from the top or bottom of the plant has yet to be resolved.
Pests and Diseases - GREENFLY/APHIDS
Greenfly / aphids thrive on the young growing tips of plants.
Symptoms
Greenfly or aphids are tiny insects that can be any shade of green, brown, red or even black. They live in colonies and can be found in either a winged or a wingless form.
First signs of an infestation are often seen in distorted leaf development, especially in the young shoots. Later there may be a sticky secretion on leaf surfaces dropped by aphids from leaves above. This in turn can become black as sooty mould takes over. One or all of these signs can indicate that these pests have taken up residence on your plant. Aphids particularly tend to favour the underside of leaves at compost level and are difficult to spot. Aphid damage causes limp, yellowing leaves which eventually drop off.
Treatment
Spraying with a proprietary insecticide as per the manufacturer's instructions. Regular inspection of growing tips and underneath lowest leaves will pay dividends. Remove all badly damaged or infested leaves. Regular pinching out in the early stages of growth limits problems of leaf distortion.
Symptoms
Greenfly or aphids are tiny insects that can be any shade of green, brown, red or even black. They live in colonies and can be found in either a winged or a wingless form.
First signs of an infestation are often seen in distorted leaf development, especially in the young shoots. Later there may be a sticky secretion on leaf surfaces dropped by aphids from leaves above. This in turn can become black as sooty mould takes over. One or all of these signs can indicate that these pests have taken up residence on your plant. Aphids particularly tend to favour the underside of leaves at compost level and are difficult to spot. Aphid damage causes limp, yellowing leaves which eventually drop off.
Treatment
Spraying with a proprietary insecticide as per the manufacturer's instructions. Regular inspection of growing tips and underneath lowest leaves will pay dividends. Remove all badly damaged or infested leaves. Regular pinching out in the early stages of growth limits problems of leaf distortion.
Pests and Diseases - CAPSID BUGS AND THRIPS
These pests are very difficult to spot but their presence is indicated by extensive damage and distortion of young growing tips.
Symptoms
Like greenfly and aphid damage the growing tips of plants are most affected. If flowers are scarce in early summer this is because the pests have eaten the new buds. Remaining leaves may be completely distorted when they appear or have holes in them. Leaf ends can be discoloured with black or brown speckles.
Treatment
This is not an easy condition to recognise in time to save the season's flowers. Regular inspection and spraying is recommended. It may be possible to remove all terminal buds and let the plant start again when the thrip/capsid bug infestation begins to ease in late summer. A second crop of flowers is less likely to be affected.
Thrips are very small creatures unlikely to be noticed but the capsid bug is quite conspicuous although very quick to disappear. Pinch an affected branch some way below the tip and watch carefully. A bright green beetle like a large aphid can often be seen scuttling down the stem to where you have cut off its retreat. Normally it would have disappeared quickly into the compost surface unnoticed. These are solitary creatures as a rule.
Once again this is a case where regular inspection and good hygiene pay off. It is probably most troublesome with plants outdoors.
Symptoms
Like greenfly and aphid damage the growing tips of plants are most affected. If flowers are scarce in early summer this is because the pests have eaten the new buds. Remaining leaves may be completely distorted when they appear or have holes in them. Leaf ends can be discoloured with black or brown speckles.
Treatment
This is not an easy condition to recognise in time to save the season's flowers. Regular inspection and spraying is recommended. It may be possible to remove all terminal buds and let the plant start again when the thrip/capsid bug infestation begins to ease in late summer. A second crop of flowers is less likely to be affected.
Thrips are very small creatures unlikely to be noticed but the capsid bug is quite conspicuous although very quick to disappear. Pinch an affected branch some way below the tip and watch carefully. A bright green beetle like a large aphid can often be seen scuttling down the stem to where you have cut off its retreat. Normally it would have disappeared quickly into the compost surface unnoticed. These are solitary creatures as a rule.
Once again this is a case where regular inspection and good hygiene pay off. It is probably most troublesome with plants outdoors.
Sunday, 19 December 2010
December - Fuchsia Year
Tasks for December
Remove all fallen leaves from the plants to prevent the spread of fungal diseases. Old plants that are going to be kept indoors require frost-free conditions. Remove all fallen leaves and debris from pot tops, reduce growth by about a third and keep the compost just moist. Further pruning will be done in the spring. This month is probably the easiest. All you can really do at this time of the year is keep an eye on your over- wintering plants. Don’t just leave them and expect everything to be fine. You should continue to check them daily and more thoroughly once a week, and deal with any problems that you may find. Remember to check the plants at the back of the staging. Check each plant individually to see if it requires water and if so give it a little (eggcup full), but do not over-water. Remove any dropped or yellowing leaves that are on the compost or staging. Spray regularly with a fungicide and on bright, dry days, continue to open vents and the door. If the greenhouse is heated ensure that the glass is kept clean and maximum light is allowed to enter. Too much heat together with low light levels will cause plants to grow tall and spindly. Order catalogues from nurseries if you plan to add new varieties to your collection.
Remove all fallen leaves from the plants to prevent the spread of fungal diseases. Old plants that are going to be kept indoors require frost-free conditions. Remove all fallen leaves and debris from pot tops, reduce growth by about a third and keep the compost just moist. Further pruning will be done in the spring. This month is probably the easiest. All you can really do at this time of the year is keep an eye on your over- wintering plants. Don’t just leave them and expect everything to be fine. You should continue to check them daily and more thoroughly once a week, and deal with any problems that you may find. Remember to check the plants at the back of the staging. Check each plant individually to see if it requires water and if so give it a little (eggcup full), but do not over-water. Remove any dropped or yellowing leaves that are on the compost or staging. Spray regularly with a fungicide and on bright, dry days, continue to open vents and the door. If the greenhouse is heated ensure that the glass is kept clean and maximum light is allowed to enter. Too much heat together with low light levels will cause plants to grow tall and spindly. Order catalogues from nurseries if you plan to add new varieties to your collection.
Friday, 19 November 2010
November - Fuchsia Year
Tasks for November
After the first frosts, the fuchsias left in the garden can have their crowns protected by a mulch. Top growth can be tidied by cutting back by up to a third and left for the winter. In the greenhouse give as much ventilation as possible on warmer days. Smokes rather than sprays should be used to control pests and diseases. fter the first frosts, the fuchsias left in the garden can have their crowns protected by a mulch.
Top growth can be tidied by cutting back by up to a third and left for the winter. In the greenhouse give as much ventilation as possible on warmer days. Smokes rather than sprays should be used to control pests and diseases.
By now all of your plants have probably been put away for the winter. Plants should have been cut back by two thirds, all the foliage removed and if you prefer re-potted in fresh compost. This is a good method of eradicating Vine weevil larvae or egg’s which may have been present in the pot - less important now with the arrival of ‘PROVADO’. This can be watered onto pots, following manufacturers guidelines. If the plants are in the greenhouse and you can maintain a temperature of 40F they will soon be throwing new shoots, and cuttings taken now will make fine large plants by early spring. Make sure that the plants are not over-watered at this time of year, just keep the compost barely moist. If possible, on all dry days, open the door and vents for a few hours to increase ventilation. Check plants daily, and more thoroughly weekly. Remove any dead material and spray regularly with a systemic fungicide to prevent Botrytis.
After the first frosts, the fuchsias left in the garden can have their crowns protected by a mulch. Top growth can be tidied by cutting back by up to a third and left for the winter. In the greenhouse give as much ventilation as possible on warmer days. Smokes rather than sprays should be used to control pests and diseases. fter the first frosts, the fuchsias left in the garden can have their crowns protected by a mulch.
Top growth can be tidied by cutting back by up to a third and left for the winter. In the greenhouse give as much ventilation as possible on warmer days. Smokes rather than sprays should be used to control pests and diseases.
By now all of your plants have probably been put away for the winter. Plants should have been cut back by two thirds, all the foliage removed and if you prefer re-potted in fresh compost. This is a good method of eradicating Vine weevil larvae or egg’s which may have been present in the pot - less important now with the arrival of ‘PROVADO’. This can be watered onto pots, following manufacturers guidelines. If the plants are in the greenhouse and you can maintain a temperature of 40F they will soon be throwing new shoots, and cuttings taken now will make fine large plants by early spring. Make sure that the plants are not over-watered at this time of year, just keep the compost barely moist. If possible, on all dry days, open the door and vents for a few hours to increase ventilation. Check plants daily, and more thoroughly weekly. Remove any dead material and spray regularly with a systemic fungicide to prevent Botrytis.
Tuesday, 19 October 2010
October - Fuchsia Year
Tasks for October
Try to keep the greenhouse as dry as possible as this discourages diseases such as Botritis.
Pinch next year’s plants into shape rather than at every joint. Very little feed is required but pests and fungal diseases need to be watched.
This month is the time when we prepare for winter. The main thing if you have a greenhouse is to clean it right out so that no pests or diseases are around when you put your plants away. Wash all the frames and staging using a strong disinfectant such as ‘Jeyes Fluid’ if possible. A spray with a mixture of fungicide and insecticide after will do no harm either. Check all the glass and frames to see if any are damaged as it will be easier to change them now than in the winter. If you have heaters make sure that they are working correctly, along with thermostats if you use them. If you do not have a greenhouse think of where you are going to over-winter your plants and prepare the place that you are going to use. It’s just a matter of waiting for winter and you putting your plants to bed until the spring.
Try to keep the greenhouse as dry as possible as this discourages diseases such as Botritis.
Pinch next year’s plants into shape rather than at every joint. Very little feed is required but pests and fungal diseases need to be watched.
This month is the time when we prepare for winter. The main thing if you have a greenhouse is to clean it right out so that no pests or diseases are around when you put your plants away. Wash all the frames and staging using a strong disinfectant such as ‘Jeyes Fluid’ if possible. A spray with a mixture of fungicide and insecticide after will do no harm either. Check all the glass and frames to see if any are damaged as it will be easier to change them now than in the winter. If you have heaters make sure that they are working correctly, along with thermostats if you use them. If you do not have a greenhouse think of where you are going to over-winter your plants and prepare the place that you are going to use. It’s just a matter of waiting for winter and you putting your plants to bed until the spring.
Sunday, 19 September 2010
September - Fuchsia Year
Tasks for September
Allow standards to ripen out of doors so that they can over-winter in a semi-dormant state. Less feed is required at this time of year.
Pests are at their worst, so keep up the spraying programme.
This is strangely enough the month when fuchsia’s sometimes look at their best, they seem to revel in the early morning dews that come at this time of the year. When you consider that most of them originate from the cloud forests of Central and South America this time of the year must seem just like being at home. Continue to feed and they will reward you with an abundance of blooms for a few more weeks. This is also the time of the year to start looking for the dreaded Vine Weevil. If any of your plants don’t seem to be doing too well; droopy although watered and fed, knock the plant out of its pot and examine the root system. If the white feeding roots are missing scrape away the compost to see if any Vine Weevil grubs (white crescent shaped maggots with brown heads) are present. If they are, remove the compost and discard in the dustbin (not onto the garden), wash roots and re-pot the plant. Destroy the grubs.
Allow standards to ripen out of doors so that they can over-winter in a semi-dormant state. Less feed is required at this time of year.
Pests are at their worst, so keep up the spraying programme.
This is strangely enough the month when fuchsia’s sometimes look at their best, they seem to revel in the early morning dews that come at this time of the year. When you consider that most of them originate from the cloud forests of Central and South America this time of the year must seem just like being at home. Continue to feed and they will reward you with an abundance of blooms for a few more weeks. This is also the time of the year to start looking for the dreaded Vine Weevil. If any of your plants don’t seem to be doing too well; droopy although watered and fed, knock the plant out of its pot and examine the root system. If the white feeding roots are missing scrape away the compost to see if any Vine Weevil grubs (white crescent shaped maggots with brown heads) are present. If they are, remove the compost and discard in the dustbin (not onto the garden), wash roots and re-pot the plant. Destroy the grubs.
Thursday, 19 August 2010
August - Fuchsia Year
Tasks for August
Fuchsias planted in the garden need plenty of water and will benefit from a mulch around the roots to prevent moisture loss and overheating. Deadhead regularly and continue to spray against pests. To keep continuous flowering you will need to ‘dead head’ your plants regularly. This means not only removing any dead or fading blooms, but also any seed pods on the plant.
Keep a sharp look-out for rust when it is very warm and damp; this is when you are likely to get an outbreak. If you find red or brownish blotches on the upper leaf surfaces and bright yellowish or orange pustules on the lower leaf surfaces then you have got rust. Remove and burn all affected leaves and defoliate plants in severe attacks.
Plants and soil should be sprayed with a suitable fungicide, depending on those that are available, following the manufacturers guidelines. Keep watering well, even on rainy days, and feed regularly with a balanced plant food such as Miracle-Gro. Take notes of plants and how well they perform in various locations.
Fuchsias planted in the garden need plenty of water and will benefit from a mulch around the roots to prevent moisture loss and overheating. Deadhead regularly and continue to spray against pests. To keep continuous flowering you will need to ‘dead head’ your plants regularly. This means not only removing any dead or fading blooms, but also any seed pods on the plant.
Keep a sharp look-out for rust when it is very warm and damp; this is when you are likely to get an outbreak. If you find red or brownish blotches on the upper leaf surfaces and bright yellowish or orange pustules on the lower leaf surfaces then you have got rust. Remove and burn all affected leaves and defoliate plants in severe attacks.
Plants and soil should be sprayed with a suitable fungicide, depending on those that are available, following the manufacturers guidelines. Keep watering well, even on rainy days, and feed regularly with a balanced plant food such as Miracle-Gro. Take notes of plants and how well they perform in various locations.
Monday, 19 July 2010
JULY - Fuchsia Year
Fuchsia Tasks for July
Ventilate the greenhouse as much as possible or stand pots out-of-doors during the daytime. Dappled sunshine is most suitable.
Take more cuttings for next year’s plants and keep them nipped and flowerless.
Spray and feed regularly.
Visit shows and nurseries and take notes of any new varieties you may wish to try yourself.
By now all of your plants should be in their final growing positions, whether in pots or baskets, and well on their way to flowering.
In fact many early flowering varieties will no doubt be in full bloom. Some like ‘Macchu Picchu’, ‘Pink Rain’ and ‘Mien Kuypers’ are hard to stop flowering. Careful attention now needs to be given to watering. Test your plants before you water, as over-watering will do more damage than letting them go a bit dry. Over-watered plants, once they reach the wilting stage, rarely recover whereas plants that have wilted through under watering will be as good as new after a couple of days of tender loving care. So, if you find your plants looking sorry for themselves, feel the pot, if the compost feels wet do not give any more water until they have fully dried out. Remove dry plants to a shaded area, water and mist leaves. Continue to check for pests and diseases.
Ventilate the greenhouse as much as possible or stand pots out-of-doors during the daytime. Dappled sunshine is most suitable.
Take more cuttings for next year’s plants and keep them nipped and flowerless.
Spray and feed regularly.
Visit shows and nurseries and take notes of any new varieties you may wish to try yourself.
By now all of your plants should be in their final growing positions, whether in pots or baskets, and well on their way to flowering.
In fact many early flowering varieties will no doubt be in full bloom. Some like ‘Macchu Picchu’, ‘Pink Rain’ and ‘Mien Kuypers’ are hard to stop flowering. Careful attention now needs to be given to watering. Test your plants before you water, as over-watering will do more damage than letting them go a bit dry. Over-watered plants, once they reach the wilting stage, rarely recover whereas plants that have wilted through under watering will be as good as new after a couple of days of tender loving care. So, if you find your plants looking sorry for themselves, feel the pot, if the compost feels wet do not give any more water until they have fully dried out. Remove dry plants to a shaded area, water and mist leaves. Continue to check for pests and diseases.
Saturday, 19 June 2010
June - Fuchsia Year
Tasks for June
Plant fuchsias out-of-doors from second week onwards. Keep them well-watered and fed. Plant in groups of three, five or seven for maximum impact.
Cuttings for next year’s show or specimen plants can be taken this month.
Now all of your plants should be in the garden growing away steadily.
Pests are also abundant and at the first sign of an infestation you should spray with a systemic insecticide, or soft soap if you prefer not to use chemicals.
Now is the time to plant hardy varieties in the garden - they are only considered hardy if they are planted in the ground. Make sure that the plant is a good size with a well established root system. Plant the fuchsia three to four inches deeper than the level of the pot it was in and water in well. some growers recommend that you do not allow the plant to flower in its first year, thus allowing it to produce a good root ball. continue to water and feed regularly. Check all plants for any signs of pests or diseases and spray as necessary. Remember to remove faded blooms, and the seed pods, for continuous flowering.
Plant fuchsias out-of-doors from second week onwards. Keep them well-watered and fed. Plant in groups of three, five or seven for maximum impact.
Cuttings for next year’s show or specimen plants can be taken this month.
Now all of your plants should be in the garden growing away steadily.
Pests are also abundant and at the first sign of an infestation you should spray with a systemic insecticide, or soft soap if you prefer not to use chemicals.
Now is the time to plant hardy varieties in the garden - they are only considered hardy if they are planted in the ground. Make sure that the plant is a good size with a well established root system. Plant the fuchsia three to four inches deeper than the level of the pot it was in and water in well. some growers recommend that you do not allow the plant to flower in its first year, thus allowing it to produce a good root ball. continue to water and feed regularly. Check all plants for any signs of pests or diseases and spray as necessary. Remember to remove faded blooms, and the seed pods, for continuous flowering.
Wednesday, 19 May 2010
May - Fuchsia Year
Tasks for May
Fuchsias will be growing strongly this month.
Cuttings and new stock can be acquired. Spray against pests. Feed plants and pinch out growing tips for bushy growth. Greenhouses need some form of shading this month and plants should be turned regularly to promote even growth. Take precautions against any late frosts.
Now is the time to acclimatise your plants to their life outside. Bring them out of the greenhouse, or where ever you have been keeping them for the winter whenever possible. If the weather is reasonable leave them out for longer periods, but be careful if there is a cold spell, some varieties will burn if they get too cold. Marinka is a good example of this happening. Towards the end of the month it should be warm enough for you to leave them outside permanently. Plants in pots or baskets will need to be watered every day, even if it has rained. Heavy rain will not water them. Feed either with quarter strength daily, or full strength once a week, with Miracle-Gro. Now more than ever check plants for pests and spray accordingly, using the manufacturers guidelines.
Fuchsias will be growing strongly this month.
Cuttings and new stock can be acquired. Spray against pests. Feed plants and pinch out growing tips for bushy growth. Greenhouses need some form of shading this month and plants should be turned regularly to promote even growth. Take precautions against any late frosts.
Now is the time to acclimatise your plants to their life outside. Bring them out of the greenhouse, or where ever you have been keeping them for the winter whenever possible. If the weather is reasonable leave them out for longer periods, but be careful if there is a cold spell, some varieties will burn if they get too cold. Marinka is a good example of this happening. Towards the end of the month it should be warm enough for you to leave them outside permanently. Plants in pots or baskets will need to be watered every day, even if it has rained. Heavy rain will not water them. Feed either with quarter strength daily, or full strength once a week, with Miracle-Gro. Now more than ever check plants for pests and spray accordingly, using the manufacturers guidelines.
Monday, 19 April 2010
April - Fuchsia Year
Tasks for April
Prune over-wintered, dormant plants, removing dead and crossing branches. S
pray stems and water roots. When new growth appears, some compost can be teased from the roots and the plant re-potted into a smaller pot. This enables new compost to be introduced later.
Plants should now be in full leaf, if not test to see if they are alive by running your thumbnail down the stem. If the wood is green underneath the plant is still alive, if brown or black then the plant is dead.
Check pots and roots to see if they need re-potting into a larger size. Pinch out the growing tips at every third leaf node to make the plant bush out. Keep plants watered, moist but not wet, and give as much light as possible. Place plants outside during the day but bring them back in at night. Continue taking cuttings and make up hanging baskets. You will need at least five plants for a 12” basket and nine for a 16” basket. Try to keep the same varieties in one basket for even growth. Check plants regularly for pests such as Aphids.
Prune over-wintered, dormant plants, removing dead and crossing branches. S
pray stems and water roots. When new growth appears, some compost can be teased from the roots and the plant re-potted into a smaller pot. This enables new compost to be introduced later.
Plants should now be in full leaf, if not test to see if they are alive by running your thumbnail down the stem. If the wood is green underneath the plant is still alive, if brown or black then the plant is dead.
Check pots and roots to see if they need re-potting into a larger size. Pinch out the growing tips at every third leaf node to make the plant bush out. Keep plants watered, moist but not wet, and give as much light as possible. Place plants outside during the day but bring them back in at night. Continue taking cuttings and make up hanging baskets. You will need at least five plants for a 12” basket and nine for a 16” basket. Try to keep the same varieties in one basket for even growth. Check plants regularly for pests such as Aphids.
Friday, 19 March 2010
March - Fuchsia Year
Tasks for March
Fuchsia cuttings that are required for standards should be staked at an early stage and the stems tied in. All side shoots can be removed as they appear. Flowering is to be discouraged during the first season, so it is important that the root is not allowed to get pot-bound as this encourages flowering. As the days lengthen and the temperatures begin to rise, if possible stand your plants outside for an hour or two. You can also start to feed your plants, using a balanced feed such as Miracle-Gro at quarter strength once a week. Try not to let the temperature inside the greenhouse get too high on sunny days. It can still get cold at night and nothing is worse than your plants being in a greenhouse where the temperature during the day can reach 90F and drop to 40F at night. You should continue to open vents and doors and turn the plants every couple of days to ensure even growth. If plants are on a windowsill use a reflector box lined with silver foil, or painted white, to reflect all available light. More cutting material will also be available. Keep checking for pests and diseases.
Fuchsia cuttings that are required for standards should be staked at an early stage and the stems tied in. All side shoots can be removed as they appear. Flowering is to be discouraged during the first season, so it is important that the root is not allowed to get pot-bound as this encourages flowering. As the days lengthen and the temperatures begin to rise, if possible stand your plants outside for an hour or two. You can also start to feed your plants, using a balanced feed such as Miracle-Gro at quarter strength once a week. Try not to let the temperature inside the greenhouse get too high on sunny days. It can still get cold at night and nothing is worse than your plants being in a greenhouse where the temperature during the day can reach 90F and drop to 40F at night. You should continue to open vents and doors and turn the plants every couple of days to ensure even growth. If plants are on a windowsill use a reflector box lined with silver foil, or painted white, to reflect all available light. More cutting material will also be available. Keep checking for pests and diseases.
Friday, 19 February 2010
February - Fuchsia Year
Tasks for February
Cuttings rooted early last month can be potted into smaller pots. After a week or two, give them their first stop to encourage the desired bushy growth.
Composts should be kept just moist until the roots start to fill the pots. Then more water can be given.
This month the days begin to draw out. If your plants are in a greenhouse spray stems with tepid water to soften the wood and encourage the growth of new shoots. Now, more than ever, you should keep an eye out for pests. Plants that are clear one day can be covered with aphids the next. Prevention is better than cure so spray with an insecticide fortnightly, but remember to vary the types of spray as resistance is soon built up. If you don’t wish to use chemicals use soft soap (Stergene) at the rate of a cupful to two gallons of water. Do not use washing up liquid as these contain chemicals that may be harmful to the plants. When the pests have been eradicated rinse the plant with fresh water to stop the pores getting blocked. Now is the time that a few cuttings may be taken if you have a heated greenhouse, or by using a propagator or windowsill (out of direct sun).
Cuttings rooted early last month can be potted into smaller pots. After a week or two, give them their first stop to encourage the desired bushy growth.
Composts should be kept just moist until the roots start to fill the pots. Then more water can be given.
This month the days begin to draw out. If your plants are in a greenhouse spray stems with tepid water to soften the wood and encourage the growth of new shoots. Now, more than ever, you should keep an eye out for pests. Plants that are clear one day can be covered with aphids the next. Prevention is better than cure so spray with an insecticide fortnightly, but remember to vary the types of spray as resistance is soon built up. If you don’t wish to use chemicals use soft soap (Stergene) at the rate of a cupful to two gallons of water. Do not use washing up liquid as these contain chemicals that may be harmful to the plants. When the pests have been eradicated rinse the plant with fresh water to stop the pores getting blocked. Now is the time that a few cuttings may be taken if you have a heated greenhouse, or by using a propagator or windowsill (out of direct sun).
Tuesday, 19 January 2010
January - Fuchsia Year
Tasks for January
Young plants taken as cuttings during June and July will require occasional weak liquid feeding, potting on as the roots start to fill pots, and nipping further into shape. Care must be taken not to over-water during these short growing days. Tips that are removed can be used for cutting material to increase stock.
Check all plants whether under glass or stored any other way. Watering this month should be done very sparingly, ensure they are not over- watered. The compost should be kept fairly dry but do not allow it to dry out completely. In heated greenhouses spray plants every two weeks with a fungicide and keep the greenhouse well ventilated, even on the coldest of days. Cold, damp conditions and lack of good ventilation can have very serious consequences. The greenhouse glass should be kept clean and clear of any debris, thus allowing maximum light to enter. Your plants should be given a quick daily check, and a more thorough check once a week. Check that the heater and thermostat are working correctly.
Young plants taken as cuttings during June and July will require occasional weak liquid feeding, potting on as the roots start to fill pots, and nipping further into shape. Care must be taken not to over-water during these short growing days. Tips that are removed can be used for cutting material to increase stock.
Check all plants whether under glass or stored any other way. Watering this month should be done very sparingly, ensure they are not over- watered. The compost should be kept fairly dry but do not allow it to dry out completely. In heated greenhouses spray plants every two weeks with a fungicide and keep the greenhouse well ventilated, even on the coldest of days. Cold, damp conditions and lack of good ventilation can have very serious consequences. The greenhouse glass should be kept clean and clear of any debris, thus allowing maximum light to enter. Your plants should be given a quick daily check, and a more thorough check once a week. Check that the heater and thermostat are working correctly.
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